Kenya's 480 km coast is one of
principal attractions for visitors to country. Every year, hundreds of thousands of sun lovers find their way here. Many are returning pilgrims who truly know that sun here is ever faithful. Unlike other beach destinations, visitor is served with much more than just sun and sand but is delighted to discover ancient coastal forests and historical sites and a people with a fascinating history and culture. The casual visitor impressed by tranquil beaches and gentle people will not suspect colourful and eventful history of these realms.For tourist, Kenyan coast can be seen as five regions. These are: town and island of Mombasa; south coast -stretching from Mombasa to Tanzanian border 135 km away: north coast- covering beaches from Mombasa up to Kilifi, 60 km away: Malindi and Watamu about 130 km to northeast of Mombasa and Lamu island and archipelago, 225 km further up from Malindi. Each of these regions has similarities in terms of history, culture, natural attractions and beach experience. But as sports fans will understand, it is differences that matter to dedicated fans of each region.
The gateway to Kenyan coast is Mombasa. You get here by flying into its international airport or by taking 520 km road journey from Nairobi, common entry port for most visitors. If you demand freedom of your own car, consider taking a rental car either in Nairobi on in Mombasa to help you get around. Review options you have for Kenya Car Rental and Kenya Domestic Flights as you plan to get there.
Mombasa, principal city at Kenya's coast is one of oldest human settlements on eastern seaboard of African continent. Though it has without doubt been in existence for at least 700 years, it is mentioned in writings of Arab, Roman and Egyptian travelers dated as far back as 2,500 years ago. The Arabs came to trade and settle, starting from about 8th century AD. With push of northeast monsoon, their dhows brought ironware, glassware, textiles, and took home rhino horn, ivory and slaves. Substantial settlements gradually developed and many traders settled and intermarried with local Africans. The Arabs also brought along message of Prophet and Kenyan coast is even today predominantly Muslim.
Relative tranquility prevailed at coastal towns until Portuguese showed up at end of 15th century. The Portuguese were a substantial seafaring power of day and were anxious to break stranglehold of Ottoman Empire on Indian Ocean trade. Vasco Da Gama opened way for his compatriots when he made his way round southern tip of Africa and up to eastern Africa in 1498. The Portuguese were not warmly received in Mombasa, but not so at Malindi. The local sultan offered his ready friendship and proved very useful to Da Gama by providing a pilot who knew how to get to India, his ultimate destination.
Between 15th and 19th centuries, Mombasa saw plenty of war. For this reason, city was nicknamed Mvita, which in Swahili translates as Isle of War. Fort Jesus, permanent garrison whose construction was started by Portuguese in 1593, changed masters 9 times before 1875. By terror of war, Portuguese sought to control east African coast. As colonial overlords, Portuguese were deficient in that they were mostly interested in plunder and trade and did not establish robust systems of administration. Another related difficulty they faced was that they were supplied from Goa in India. The student of military theory will recognise this as a classical case of "long supply lines".
The Portuguese were finally driven out by emerging power of Omani Arabs in 1729. The ascendancy of Omani Arabs lasted until Britain, a leading super power at time, appeared at beginning of 19th century. The British came in under guise of a humanitarian mission- suppression of slave trade. The Omani Arabs were notorious slave traders. Christian missionaries put pressure on British government to persuade Omani Arabs to pursue other trade other than trafficking in humans. This is somewhat like problem Americans face today in South America with respect to cocaine trade.
The British were actually successful in this, by using time honoured carrot and stick tactics. Under resulting deal, Omani Arabs whose headquarters was in Zanzibar were recognized as overlords over a 16 km strip along Kenyan coast. The sultan was to be paid an annuity as compensation for resulting loss of revenue. This territory acquired status of a British Protectorate until 1963 when Sultan of Zanzibar ceded it to newly independent Kenyan nation.
Mombasa is today a cosmopolitan metropolis reflecting influence of Africans, Persians, Arabs, Turks, Indians, Portuguese and British. The Old Town is a grid of narrow winding streets lined with houses built to coastal Swahili and Indian styles. Some of houses have intricately carved doors similar to what you find in Zanzibar and Lamu. In Old Town you will find Fort Jesus, permanent garrison built by hapless Portuguese. Fort Jesus, in addition to being an attraction itself, houses a museum exhibiting various artifacts reflecting various cultures that have influenced Kenyan coast. You will also see articles recovered from ill-fated Portuguese warship Santo Antonio De Tanna, which sank in siege of 1697 that lasted 1000 days.
In Mombasa you can take an all day dhow trip and relive experience of traders who sailed along East African coast and as far as India and Persian Gulf aboard these vessels for centuries. For past few years, every November Mombasa Carnival has been staged in town. The Carnival is a lively street parade where you see incredibly adorned musicians and other artists from Kenyan coast and other parts of country. Street comedians, Swahili Taarab singers, Maasai warriors, brass bands and individual artists in outrageous costumes brave November heat to march in parade.
Visitors to south coast usually head to Shelley, Tiwi, Diani, Msambweni and Shimoni. These are beaches to south of Mombasa, where hotel and resort development has taken place. To get to south coast beaches you need to take ferry at Likoni, southern tip of Mombasa Island. If this does not suit you, take a flight to Diani airstrip. Diani beach, 40 km from Mombasa is most developed beach at south coast. This is quintessential tropical paradise and here you will find a wide range of hotels, including an 18-hole golf resort. Though some of other beaches are excellent, they have limited range of accommodation and attract fewer people.
